Fez to Chefchaouen

Several months ago I watched a documentary which focused partly on Morocco.  The two images that were left in my mind were the leather workers at the tanneries and a small town nestled high in the mountains which was famous because the buildings there were all blue. 

In Fez we visited the tanneries which were every bit as fascinating as I had convinced myself they would be, so my attention now was on finding the blue houses in the mountains.  It turned out to be a lot easier than expected after to speaking to many people who not only knew of this place but had glowing recommendations of it.  So we got back on the bus and headed there.....

Fez

Fez is the former capital and is one of the four 'imperial cities' found in Morocco.  We stayed in a riad in Fes el Bali (translates as old walled city) which is a listed World Unesco Heritage site.  Most of these pictures are taken from inside the medina or a view from above the city looking down.

Fez - the old town is surrounded by a wall.

Blue gates

Outside of the old town.

Looking over part of the city.

Old fort ruins

Surrounding countryside where many olives are grown. A graveyard sits at the base of the valley.

View from above

Traditional leather shoes that are hand made in Fez.

Cow leather

The tannery

workers dyeing the leather hydes

Craftsman engraving a golden tray by hand.

Qur'an School doorway

Shoes made from camel leather.

A traditional coffin built in carpenter's square.

University of Al-Karaouine, founded in AD 859, is the oldest continuously functioning university in the world.

Now I want to tell you a story...

[Act 1]  Once upon a time, two backpackers (heavily laden with too much luggage) find themselves complexed by the repetitive maze they find before them.

[Act 2] Enter a small boy

A small boy mysteriously appears and offers to show you the way to your accomodation.  En route you just happen to pass his uncles restaurant which has the "best food in town".  Coincidentally a few minutes later you are likely to end up at his parents leather shop where they sell "only the best handcrafted goods made from only the finest leather". (You can change restaurant or leather shop  with any shop be it carpets, butchers or one of many textiles outlets but you get the idea)

[Act 3] The young entrepreneur continues on his quest ensuring you that "we are very close" and at this stage it would be wise to reach into your pocket for some spare change - about 10-20 Dirham ( £1 or $1.50) will be more than enough and I have now started collecting small change for such occasions as these.

Upon receiving the coin, the boys eyes light up and he acts all surprised as if he didn't expect anything for his help.

Before parting he might chance his arm once more by offering a tour of the city.  Mention something about it being illegal and you will see a clean pair of heals as the small boy vanishes as quickly as he appeared.

The End. (Until next time you leave your hostel and turn into the nearest street).

That said, Fez is remarkable in so many ways.  Fez manages to be simultaneously chaotic and enchanting. It is fascinating, shocking and ultimately provides too many sights, sounds and smells for the brain to comprehend.

Paul Theroux once remarked that "travel is only glamorous in retrospect" so with that notion, I feel that Fez as most of Morocco, will continue to burrow deep beneath my skin long after I have left and I look forward to being able to comprehend the wonderful experiences that are spinning like an unfathomable kaleidoscope in my mind right now. 

Marrakech to Fez

After 4 days in Marrakech we decided to head north and take a 9 hour bus journey which would twist and turn all the way through the Atlas mountains. 

Whilst booking our tickets, Cassandra impressively leans over the counter at the station and in a very Moroccan style asks if "we can get a discount".  The guy looked blankly and raised his eyebrows, I laughed.  Cassandra turns to me and says "well we didn't have anything to lose?".  A few hours later we would find that statement to not be entirely true as there were 49 seats on the bus and we just happened to be sitting in 2 of 4 of them that didn't recline - all the other passengers laying back and enjoying the ride.

We set off at 11.30pm and it was an extremly surreal experience.  We passed a horrific car accident where a truck full of textiles had spilled goods all over the road and stopped once at a gas station in the middle of back and beyond.  I went to get a coke and was amazed to see so many people eating, playing cards and shopping at the butchers?!!

As I drifted in and out of conciousness, I would sporadically wake to see the Atlas Mountains, the odd farms and ultimately, how expansive the countryside of Morocco is.

As day broke I watched Cassandra sleeping with an everchanging backdrop of mountains, small dwellings and the odd farm.

We eventually arrived in Fez just before 9a.m.